This Lavista Park sushi spot redefines Crab Rangoon

DOTW - Sushi Itto - Cheese Puffs - Henri Hollis

Cheese Puffs at Sushi Itto, a neighborhood restaurant at the intersection of Briarcliff and Lavista roads. CONTRIBUTED BY HENRI HOLLIS

The first time we visited Sushi Itto a couple of years ago, my wife looked over the menu in consternation. “They don’t have Crab Rangoon,” she said, obviously dejected. Upon closer inspection, we saw a different dish that looked promising: Cheese Puffs, described as “cream cheese with Krab stick, deep fried with crunch.” The description is apt, and Sushi Itto’s Cheese Puffs are delicious – several steps above any other Crab Rangoon I’ve tried.

Crab Rangoon is a controversial dish that is nonetheless beloved by many. It’s controversial in that it is in no way authentic to any Southeast Asian cuisine. It’s beloved because it involves deep-fried cream cheese. I have long steered clear of supposed Asian food that involves any sort of cheese, so of course, I married a Crab Rangoon obsessive.

The version at Sushi Itto goes beyond the “traditional” Crab Rangoon by eliminating the wonton wrapper. Nothing but a crispy coating of Panko breadcrumbs separates you from the melty, salty and sweet cream cheese filling. Sushi Itto’s Cheese Puffs are also always served piping hot, and their shape is not quite uniform – telltale signs that they are handmade to order. Just $5 will get you six of these little gems, a treat that might not be authentic but certainly benefits from a little extra attention. It’s an especially good bargain if it transforms your Crab Rangoon-addicted spouse from disappointed to blissful in one bite.

2173 Briarcliff Rd NE, Atlanta. 404-633-3400,



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