This Marietta doughnut dwells in a realm beyond sweetness

Cinnamon Toast doughnut from Doughnut Dollies in Marietta. / Ben Brasch

DISH OF THE WEEK: Cinnamon Toast doughnut at Doughnut Dollies

By Ben Brasch

I always get excited when I see cinnamon-anything on a menu.

But cinnamon can be disappointing, as I found out in kindergarten upon chomping into a curled piece of cinnamon instead of putting it in potpourri like I was supposed to. The timeout seemed silly compared to the self-punishment of eating tree bark that I thought was going to taste like my favorite flavor.

Over the years, I’ve learned that fall brings not just pretty leaves but peak cinnamon sin season. When foods are described as cinnamon-flavored, I find myself gnashing through much more raw sugar than delicious cinnamon.

But that’s not the case at Doughnut Dollies.

The Marietta shop’s Cinnamon Toast doughnut showcases the true flavor of cinnamon, which plays as savory in everything from barbecue rubs to Indian spice blends.

The yeast doughnut is dusted with buttered brioche cinnamon sugar toast and acts like crumb cake in your mouth.

If you can find the shop — tucked behind and below another bakery on Cherokee Street — also snag one of the namesake doughnuts with its creme brulee filling, splintering sugar top and burnt outside that also subverts sweetness.

Doughnut Dollies, 724 Cherokee St., Marietta. 404-365-5437, mydoughnutdollies.com.

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